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And you can still buy it on the street there today. For many new Italian-Americans, food became a means of economic survival. Soon American capitalism was marketing spaghetti and meatballs in a can. Americans both embrace it and debase it. You might say that the message of Neapolitan cooking is like the message of the people themselves: relax, sit down, serve yourself a little pasta, and taste life.
We should all thank them for this great pleasure. Add the tomatoes and salt to taste. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring often, until the sauce is thick, 15 to 20 minutes, depending on the tomatoes. Stir in the basil leaves. Serve over hot cooked spaghetti or other pasta. Pat the pork dry and put the pieces in the pot. Cook, turning occasionally, for about 15 minutes, or until nicely browned on all sides.
Transfer the pork to a plate. Brown the veal in the same way and add it to the plate. Place the sausages in the pot and brown on all sides. Set the sausages aside with the pork. Drain off most of the fat from the pot. Add the garlic and cook for about two minutes or until golden. Remove and discard the garlic. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 1 minute. With a food mill, puree the tomatoes, with their juice, into the pot.
Or, for a chunkier sauce, just chop up the tomatoes and add them. Add the water and salt and pepper to taste. Add the pork, veal, and sausages and basil and bring the sauce to a simmer.
Partially cover the pot and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, for 2 hours. If the sauce becomes too thick, add a little more water. Meanwhile, make the meatballs: Combine all the ingredients except the oil in a large bowl. Mix together thoroughly. Rinse your hands with cool water and lightly shape the mixture into 2-inch balls. Note: If you are making meatballs for lasagne or baked ziti, shape the meat into tiny balls the size of a small grape.
Heat the oil in a large heavy skillet. Add the meatballs and brown them well on all sides. They will finish cooking later. Transfer the meatballs to a plate. After two hours, add the meatballs and cook for 30 minutes or until the sauce is thick and the meats very tender. To serve, remove the meats from the sauce and set aside. Toss the cooked pasta with the sauce. Sprinkle with cheese. Serve the meats as a second course, or reserve them for another day.
Cut the sausages into thin slices and put them with the meatballs. Lay out some lint-free kitchen towels on a flat surface. Have a large bowl of cold water ready. Bring at least 4 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot. Add salt to taste. Add a few pieces of the lasagne and cook until al dente, tender yet firm to the bite. Scoop the pasta out of the water and place in the cold water.
When cool, lay the pasta sheets out flat on the towels. The towels can be stacked one on top of the other. Continue cooking and cooling the remaining lasagne in the same way. Set aside the best-looking pasta strips for the top layer. Make a layer of pasta, overlapping the pieces slightly.
Spread about onequarter of the ricotta on top of the pasta, then scatter on about one-quarter of the tiny meatballs and sliced sausages and one-quarter of the mozzarella. Repeat the layers three more times. Make a final layer of pasta, sauce, and grated cheese. If you are making the lasagne ahead of time, cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to bake, or as long as overnight.
Bake the lasagne for 1 hour and 10 to 30 minutes, until the top is browned and the sauce is bubbling around the edges. If it starts to get too brown on top before it is heated through, cover the pan loosely with aluminum foil.
Remove the lasagne from the oven and let set for 15 minutes. Cut the lasagne into squares and serve. Pat the steaks dry. Add to the pan and cook, turning once, until browned on both sides. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Transfer the meat to a platter.
Scatter the garlic into the pan and cook for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, oregano, red pepper, and salt to taste. Bring the sauce to a simmer. Cook for 20 minutes, or until the sauce is thickened. Return the steaks to the sauce. Cook briefly, turning the steaks once or twice, until they are warmed and cooked to taste. Serve hot. Place the clams in a large pot with the water.
Cover the pot and turn the heat to medium-high. Cook just until the clams begin to open—you will hear a popping sound. Transfer the opened clams to a bowl and continue cooking the remaining clams. Discard any that refuse to open. Set the pot aside. Working over a small bowl to catch the juices, scrape the clams from the shells, placing them in another bowl. Pour all of the liquid from the pot into the bowl with the juices. If the clams are sandy, rinse them one at a time in the clam juices.
Pass the liquid through a sieve lined with cheesecloth or a paper coffee filter. In a inch skillet, cook the garlic, parsley, and peperoncino in the oil over medium heat until the garlic is golden. Add about two-thirds of the clam juices and cook until the liquid is reduced by half. Stir in the remaining juices and the clams and cook 1 minute more. Meanwhile, bring at least 4 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot.
Add the linguine and salt to taste. Cook, stirring frequently, until the linguine is al dente, tender yet still firm to the bite. Drain the pasta. Toss the pasta with the sauce over high heat for 1 minute. Serve immediately. Remove the hard round beak at the base of the tentacles of each octopus. In a large heavy saucepan, combine the octopus, tomatoes, oil, 3 tablespoons of the parsley, the garlic, red pepper, and salt to taste.
Bring sauce to a simmer. Cover the pot and cook over very low heat, stirring occasionally, for 45 minutes. Uncover the pan and cook for 15 minutes more, or until the octopus is tender when pierced with a knife and the sauce is thick. Sprinkle the friselle with water to soften them slightly. Divide the friselle, or slices of toast, among six plates.
Top with the octopus and sauce. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon parsley and serve. Sprinkle the beef with the garlic, cheese, parsley, and salt and pepper. Cover with the prosciutto slices. Roll up each piece like a sausage and tie it with kitchen string. Heat the oil in a large pot. Add the braciole and garlic. Cook, turning the meat occasionally, until it is browned on all sides and the garlic is golden.
Add the wine and simmer for 2 minutes. Stir in the tomato puree and basil. Cover and cook over low heat, turning the meat occasionally, until it is tender when pierced with a fork, about 2 hours.
Add a little water if the sauce becomes too thick. Serve the sauce over the hot cooked ziti as a first course, followed by the braciole. Add the eggs and stir until well blended. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured board and knead until smooth, about 5 minutes; add a little more flour if the dough seems sticky. Shape the dough into a ball.
Cover the dough with an overturned bowl. Let rest for 30 minutes. Cut the dough into 8 pieces. Pour about 2 inches oil into a deep heavy saucepan or a deep fryer. Being careful not to splash the hot oil, slip just enough of the pieces of dough into the pan as will fit without crowding.
Cook, stirring once or twice, until the struffoli are crisp and evenly golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the struffoli with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.
Continue with the remaining dough. When all of the struffoli are fried, gently heat the honey just to a simmer in a large shallow saucepan. Remove from the heat, add the struffoli, and stir well.
Pile the struffoli on a serving plate. Decorate with the candied fruits, sprinkles, or nuts. These keep well covered at room temperature for several days. To serve, break off portions of the struffoli with two large spoons or a salad server. The reigning patriarch of the Soprano family is Corrado Soprano, Jr. His father, Corrado, Sr. These verbatim comments come from an interview with Mr. Soprano at his present home in Belleville. What was it like?
It was Valhalla. It was the Golden Age of Life. My brother, Johnny, and I had what you might call carte blanche to go anywhere and do anything in the neighborhood and we had a great time.
Did you know there were musicians who used to stroll up and down Garside Street? It was wonderful, I tell you, like an Italian Disneyland. Everybody knew everybody. Of course, most people were poor working slobs and there was a lot of drinking and a lot of domestic fights where some guy would crack his wife one and cops would come and drag him away, but that just added to the excitement. Of course, there were some successful entrepreneurs in the neighborhood who had more wealth.
Everyone looked up to them. The old man was not what you would call the gregarious type. He worked his butt off six days a week, twelve hours a day, and outside, too, in the rain and snow, a miserable g-d job. When he came home, he was beat. Or wondering why the Italian people always got the short end of the stick. But Mama was a great cook, and she used to spend all day going from one little shop to another getting the stuff for a good dinner. There was a macaroni factory nearby that would bring the macaroni right to your door.
They brought ice that way too. And pizza peddlers on the streets, just like in Naples. For like pennies, you could get a slice whenever you wanted. It was wonderful, I tell you. I burnt the roof of my mouth very badly one time. Mama always cooked. Every dinner was something. We ate like elephants, I tell you, but never got fat, except for Mama, of course. And no one died of too much cholesterol or some such crap. My brother, Johnny, God love him, succumbed to emphysema and cancer because of smoking too much.
My father died of old age and bitterness. He just wore out one day and died. Except for the old man, we all told stories while we ate, especially Johnny, who could spin 20 minutes of bullshit about a three-minute walk to the corner.
Or the degenerate bastards Johnny was always beating at craps. We also had fun at all the religious feasts they used to have in the neighborhood, but that was just Johnny and me. The old man never went—he just stayed home and drank. I miss those dinners, I guess, but what I really miss is my brother, Johnny.
He was the life of the party. He made growing up fun. Add more water if necessary to keep the beans covered. Bring to a simmer over low heat.
Cover the pot and cook until the beans are very soft, about 1 hour. Add more water if needed to keep the beans just covered.
You can substitute 3 cups canned beans, rinsed and drained. When the beans are almost ready, cook the celery and garlic in the olive oil in a large saucepan over moderate heat. When the garlic is golden, discard it. Add the tomatoes, tomato paste, water, peperoncino, and salt to taste. Simmer for 10 minutes, or until the sauce is slightly thickened.
Add the beans and their cooking liquid, or the canned beans, to the tomato sauce. Bring the mixture to a simmer, mashing some of the beans with the back of a large spoon. Stir in the pasta and cook, stirring often, until the pasta is al dente, tender yet still firm to the bite.
The mixture should be very thick, but add a little boiling water if it seems too thick. Turn off the heat and let stand for 10 minutes before serving. Pour the oil into a large saucepan, add the chopped mixture, and cook over medium-low heat until the vegetables are tender and golden.
Stir in the tomato paste and salt and pepper to taste. Add the potatoes and water, bring to a simmer, and cook until the potatoes are very tender, about 30 minutes. Mash some of the potatoes with the back of a spoon. Add the pasta and boiling water. Cook, stirring often, until the pasta is tender. The mixture should remain quite thick, but add more water if it seems too thick.
Stir in the cheese and serve immediately. If using stockfish, soak the fish in the same manner for 5 to 7 days, until it is soft and pliable. Bring about 2 inches of water to a simmer in a deep skillet. Add the fish and cook for 10 minutes, or until it is tender but not breaking apart. Remove the fish with a slotted spoon. Let cool, then remove any skin and bones. Add the tomatoes and their juice, the oregano, and salt and pepper to taste.
Bring to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes or until the sauce is slightly thickened. Stir in the basil. Choose a baking dish large enough to hold the fish in a single layer.
Spoon a thin layer of sauce into the dish. Arrange the fish on top. Spoon on the remaining sauce and drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Bake 30 minutes, or until the sauce is bubbling. Bring 4 quarts of cold water to a boil in a large pot. Add the broccoli and salt to taste. Cook for 5 minutes. Scoop out the broccoli with a small sieve. Reserve the cooking water in the pot. Pour the oil into a skillet large enough to hold all the ingredients. Add the garlic and red pepper and cook over medium heat for about 2 minutes, or until the garlic is lightly golden.
Add the broccoli and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes, or until the broccoli is very soft. Meanwhile, bring the water back to a boil. Add the rigatoni and cook, stirring frequently, until the pasta is not quite tender. Scoop out about 1 cup of the cooking water and set it aside. Drain the rigatoni and add it to the skillet with the broccoli. Add the reserved cooking water and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes more.
Sprinkle with the cheese, toss, and serve immediately. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 30 minutes, until the vegetables are very tender.
Remove from the heat and stir in the basil. Serve hot or at room temperature. Cover the pan, bring the water to a boil, and cook over medium heat for 30 minutes until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork. Peel the potatoes and mash them very, very fine. Let cool slightly. Stir the egg yolks, cheese, salami, parsley, and nutmeg into the potatoes. Add salt and pepper to taste. In a shallow dish, beat the egg whites until frothy.
Spread the bread crumbs on a sheet of wax paper. Repeat with the remaining potato mixture. Dip the potato logs into the egg whites, then roll them in the crumbs, coating them completely. Place the logs on a wire rack and let dry for 15 to 30 minutes. Heat over medium heat until a bread crumb or a bit of the egg white sizzles when dropped in the oil.
Fry them, turning occasionally, until evenly browned. Serve immediately, or keep them warm in a low oven while you fry the remainder. She is of my generation, sister to Tony and the baby of the family, Barbara.
Janice is a freelance artist and song composer. At the time of this writing, she lived in Seattle, Washington, where she was also employed in the food service industry. I ashed her what Sunday dinner was like growing up in the Soprano home in West Orange.
What follows is her audiotaped remembrance. When I dream, frankly, there is always food in there. I grew up in a typical Italian-American family of that era and milieu. My father, Giovanni, or Johnny, a strikingly handsome man, juggled the balls of many businesses. Sunday dinner was the time of the week for our little family. I was in charge of setting the table, given the artistic touch that I, alone among my siblings, possess. My specialty was napkin flowers, an Oriental touch.
Ma was too busy to notice and Daddy usually grabbed the napkin flower and stuffed it into his lap without looking. It was always his Market, which meant that we always ate the best in pork and provisions. If you were a non-Italian fly on the wall, it probably sounded more like bickering than jousting.
So be it. In my house, to love, to care, was to bicker, and vice versa. She knew where every nickel was buried. During these discussions, Daddy would often eat and smoke at the same time.
Tony would complain of a bellyache, which put Ma over the line. Tony, not feeling well, would lie down on the couch and flick on bowling. Barbara would slip away to her room and it was thus left to me to clear the dishes, as usual, and pick apart what remained of the dehydrated pork, etc. Letter from Livia to her sister Settima. Another Soprano Sunday dinner had come to a climactic—and life affirming—finale.
Do not soak mushrooms, or they will absorb too much water. Drain the mushrooms and pat dry. To make the sauce, cook the onion in the oil in a large skillet until tender and golden. Stir in the mushrooms and garlic and cook until the mushrooms are lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add the tomato puree, basil, and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes. Stir in the peas.
Add the ziti and salt to taste. Cook, stirring frequently, until the pasta is al dente, tender yet firm to the bite. Drain the ziti and place it in a bowl. Spread the ricotta on top. Pour on 1 more cup of the sauce and sprinkle with the mozzarella. Top with the remaining ziti, sauce, and grated cheese.
Cover the dish with foil. The ziti can be refrigerated for several hours, or overnight, at this point. Remove from the refrigerator about 30 minutes before baking. Bake the ziti for 45 minutes. Uncover and bake for 15 to 30 minutes longer, or until the center is hot and the sauce is bubbling around the edges. Cover and let stand for 15 minutes before serving. Drain the mushrooms and pat them dry.
Cut the mushrooms in half, or into quarters if large. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring often, until browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Sprinkle with the parsley, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste. Cook 2 minutes more, or until the garlic is golden. Chicken Soup With Orzo Serves 6 One 4-pound chicken 1 pound chicken backs and wings 2 medium carrots, chopped 2 celery ribs, chopped 2 onions, chopped 6 sprigs flat-leaf parsley 6 whole black peppercorns Salt 8 ounces orzo or other small pasta, cooked Rinse the chicken and chicken parts well.
Set aside the giblets for another use. Place the chicken and chicken parts in a 6-quart pot. Add cold water to cover and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 30 minutes. Skim off the foam and fat that rises to the surface.
Add the vegetables, parsley, peppercorns, and a little salt. Add more water if needed to keep the chicken submerged. Remove the chicken from the pot; set the pot aside. Discard the skin and bones and cut the chicken into bite-sized pieces. Return the meat to the pot. Reheat gently. Add the orzo, taste for seasoning, and serve hot.
Place the peppers on the pan and place in the broiler so that the peppers are about 3 inches from the heat. Turn on the broiler to high. Broil the peppers, turning them frequently, until the skin blisters and they are charred all over.
Put the peppers in a bowl, cover with foil, and let cool. Cut the peppers in half, draining the juices into a bowl. Peel off the skin and discard the seeds and stems. Cut the peppers lengthwise into 1 -inch strips and place in a serving bowl. Strain the juices over the peppers. Add the olive oil, basil, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste.
Let marinate for at least 30 minutes before serving. Finely chop the garlic and rosemary together. In a small bowl, mix together the chopped ingredients, the salt, pepper, and enough olive oil to form a paste. Poke deep pockets into the surface of the pork with the knife. Rub the paste into the cuts. Place the pork in a large roasting pan. Roast for 3 hours. Tip the pan and carefully remove the excess fat. Let stand for 20 minutes. Remove the pork skin and cut into small pieces.
Slice the meat. Serve the meat hot or at room temperature, with some of the pork skin. Place the meat fat side up in a large roasting pan. Sprinkle it all over with salt and pepper. Scatter the carrots and onions around the meat. Place the roast in the lower third of the oven. Roast for 12 minutes to the pound for rare beef. Roast a little longer for medium-rare.
Transfer the meat to a cutting board. Cover with foil and let stand for 20 to 30 minutes. Meanwhile, spoon off the fat in the roasting pan. Add the beef broth to the pan and place it over medium heat. Cook, scraping up browned bits in the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon, for several minutes until slightly reduced.
Strain the juices into a heated gravy boat. Carve the meat and serve with the juices. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. Heat a 6-inch nonstick skillet or omelet pan over medium heat. Brush the pan lightly with oil. Pour any excess batter back into the bowl. Cook the crepe for 1 minute, or until the edges turn brown and begin to lift away from the pan. Cook, stirring frequently, until the pasta is al dente, tender yet firm to the bite. Drain the ziti and place it in a bowl.
Spread the ricotta on top. Pour on 1 more cup of the sauce and sprinkle with the mozzarella. Top with the remaining ziti, sauce, and grated cheese. Cover the dish with foil. The ziti can be refrigerated for several hours, or overnight, at this point. Remove from the refrigerator about 30 minutes before baking. Bake the ziti for 45 minutes. Uncover and bake for 15 to 30 minutes longer, or until the center is hot and the sauce is bubbling around the edges.
Cover and let stand for 15 minutes before serving. Drain the mushrooms and pat them dry. Cut the mushrooms in half, or into quarters if large. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring often,. Sprinkle with the parsley, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste. Cook 2 minutes more, or until the garlic is golden.
Chicken Soup With Orzo Serves 6 One 4-pound chicken 1 pound chicken backs and wings 2 medium carrots, chopped 2 celery ribs, chopped 2 onions, chopped 6 sprigs flat-leaf parsley 6 whole black peppercorns Salt 8 ounces orzo or other small pasta, cooked Rinse the chicken and chicken parts well. Set aside the giblets for another use. Place the chicken and chicken parts in a 6-quart pot. Add cold water to cover and bring to a simmer over medium heat.
Reduce the heat to low and cook for 30 minutes. Skim off the foam and fat that rises to the surface. Add the vegetables, parsley, peppercorns, and a little salt. Add more water if needed to keep the chicken submerged. Remove the chicken from the pot; set the pot aside.
Discard the skin and bones and cut the chicken into bite-sized pieces. Return the meat to the pot. Reheat gently. Add the orzo, taste for seasoning, and serve hot.
Place the peppers on the pan and place in the broiler so that the peppers are about 3 inches from the heat. Turn on the broiler to high. Broil the peppers, turning them frequently, until the skin blisters and they are charred all over. Put the peppers in a bowl, cover with foil, and let cool. Cut the peppers in half, draining the juices into a bowl. Peel off the skin and discard the seeds and stems. Cut the peppers lengthwise into 1 -inch strips and place in a serving bowl.
Strain the juices over the peppers. Add the olive oil, basil, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste. Let marinate for at least Roast pork Shoulder Serves 8 to 10 8 garlic cloves 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary 1 tablespoon salt 1 teaspoon coarsely ground pepper Olive oil One 6-pound pork shoulder roast Preheat the oven to F.
Finely chop the garlic and rosemary together. In a small bowl, mix together the chopped ingredients, the salt, pepper, and enough olive oil to form a paste. Poke deep pockets into the surface of the pork with the knife. Rub the paste into the cuts. Place the pork in a large roasting pan. Roast for 3 hours. Tip the pan and carefully remove the excess fat. Let stand for 20 minutes.
Remove the pork skin and cut into small pieces. Slice the meat. Serve the meat hot or at room temperature, with some of the pork skin.
Standing Rib Roast Serves 10 One 4-rib fully trimmed beef roast about 8 pounds Salt and freshly ground pepper 2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into chunks 2 onions, cut into wedges 2 cups beef broth Preheat the oven to F.
Place the meat fat side up in a large roasting pan. Sprinkle it all over with salt and pepper. Scatter the carrots and onions around the meat. Place the roast in the lower third of the oven. Roast for 12 minutes to the pound for rare beef. An 8-pound roast will need about 1 hour and 45 minutes; the temperature of the meat should be to F on an instant-read thermometer.
Roast a little longer for medium-rare. Transfer the meat to a cutting board. Cover with foil and let stand for 20 to 30 minutes. Meanwhile, spoon off the fat in the roasting pan. Add the beef broth to the pan and place it over medium heat. Cook, scraping up browned bits in the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon, for several minutes until slightly reduced. Strain the juices into a heated gravy boat. Carve the meat and serve with the juices.
Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. Heat a 6-inch nonstick skillet or omelet pan over medium heat. Brush the pan lightly with oil. Pour any excess batter back into the bowl. Cook the crepe for 1 minute, or until the edges turn brown and begin to lift away from the pan.
With your fingers, flip the crepe over, and cook for 30 seconds more, or until spotted with brown on the other side. Slide the cooked crepe onto a plate. Cover with a piece of wax paper. Repeat with the remaining batter, stacking the crepes and separating each one with a piece of wax paper. The crepes can be made up to 2 days ahead of serving.
Cover with plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator until ready to use. To make the filling, stir together all of the ingredients in a large bowl. Spoon a thin layer of the sauce into a 13 9 2-inch baking dish. Continue with the remaining crepes and filling, placing them close together.
Spoon on the remaining sauce. Sprinkle with the cheese. Bake for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the sauce is bubbling and the manicotti are heated through. Cavatelli Gavadeel Pasta Shells Serves 6 to 8 2 cups fine semolina flour 1 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting Salt About 1 cup warm water Sunday Gravy page 14 or a double recipe of Marinara Sauce page 13 Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano for serving Stir together the two flours and 1 teaspoon salt in a bowl.
Gradually add enough water to form a stiff dough. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead the dough until it is smooth, about 2 minutes.
Shape the dough into a ball and cover it with a bowl. Lightly dust 2 or 3 large cookie sheets with flour. Work with one piece at a time, keeping the remainder covered. Using a small knife with a dull blade and rounded tip, press your index finger against the side of the blade and flatten each piece of dough, pressing and dragging it slightly so that the dough curls around the tip of the knife to form a shell shape.
Spread the cavatelli on a prepared cookie sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough. If you are not using the cavatelli within an hour, place the pans in the freezer.
When the pieces are firm, scoop them into a plastic bag and seal tightly. Freeze until ready to use. Do not thaw before cooking. To cook the cavatelli, bring at least 4 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot over high heat. Add the cavatelli and salt to taste. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is tender yet still slightly chewy.
Meanwhile, reheat the sauce. Drain the cavatelli and pour them into a heated serving bowl. Add the sauce and serve immediately, with grated cheese. Amaretti Almond Macaroons Makes 36 One 8-ounce can almond paste 1 cup sugar 2 large egg whites, at room temperature. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper or foil. In a food processor or the large bowl of an electric mixer, combine the almond paste and sugar. Process or beat until blended.
Add the egg whites and process or beat until very smooth. Scoop up 1 tablespoon of the batter and lightly roll it into a ball. Dampen your fingertips with cool water if necessary to prevent sticking. Place on a prepared baking sheet and repeat with the remaining batter, placing the balls about 1 inch apart on the baking sheets.
Push a candied cherry or almond into the top of each cookie. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes, or until the cookies are lightly browned. Let cool briefly on the baking sheets. With a thin metal spatula, transfer the cookies to wire racks to cool completely.
Store the cookies in airtight containers. Butter and flour two large baking sheets. Pour the milk into a shallow bowl.
Spread the sesame seeds on a piece of wax paper. Set aside. In the large bowl of an electric mixer, stir together the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. On low speed, beat in the butter a little at a time. In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs, vanilla, and orange zest.
Stir the egg mixture into the dry ingredients until well blended. Dip the log in the milk, then roll it in the sesame seeds. Place on a prepared baking sheet and flatten slightly. Continue with the remaining dough, placing the cookies about 1 inch apart.
Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until well browned. Let cool on the baking sheets for 10 minutes, then transfer the cookies to a rack to cool completely. Store in an airtight container.
They live in a lovely home in North Caldwell, New Jersey. With all of her family and charitable duties, which are considerable, Carmela still has the time and inclination to cook as many dinners for her family as possible. Why is cooking at home so important to her? What does it say about her heritage? To find out, we sat down for a heart to heart. First of all, I dont like strangers in my house, nor does Tony.
I know its very fashionable nowadays to order out gourmet or pop a frozen risotto in the micro, but thats not me. I love to cook.
Call me old-fashioned, but I think cooking is one waymaybe the best wayof communicating to my family that I love and care for them.
And our house is designed in the contemporary open format where the kitchen is the center of things. You can learn a lot about your kids when they bring their friends over and hang around the fridge. All mothers used to cook. But my mother cooked in a slightly different way than I do. She was Sicilian, you know, and my fathers family is from the province of Caserta, but having married Tony I have become a native of Avellinoa born-again Avellinese.
This is very important to him, where he comes from. In fact, I use more recipes from his ma than from my own! Actually, what difference does it make? Its all the same stufftomatoes, garlic, what have you. The food of the South. Thats pasta with sardines, a classic Sicilian meal. This is not something Tony wants to see under his nose at mealtime.
Me neither, frankly. Or baked ziti, which was really the only complex dish his mother knew how to make. Shcarole, of course. Fried zucchini flowers, for special occasions. Frozen spinach, which is as good as fresh. Shcarole soup. I try to cook healthy. Italian food is so in with these kids. They read that Brad Pitt loves garlic or that Ally McBeal beanpole lives on primavera and they want the same thing.
Whats not to like? Of course AJ avoids the veggies and inhales pizza. And Meadow comes home from college just to grab rigaton to take back with her. The calories are a concern to her, though. Me too! Hollyweird [Hunter]: i hate food Bella [Meadow]: dont even go there Holly: im goin on a fast Bella: yeah, ok, sure Holly: winona ryder did, said it was mind-blowing Bella: cancel your subscrib to People Holly: im thinking about that Bella: i weigh a ton Holly: you have an eatin disorder, you look fine Bella: i wish i had a eating disorder Holly: forget it.
Bella: its bad eating habits growin up. Ddamn all fat italians! Holly: no u dont. Bella: im going bulmic. Holly: like nan steen the throwup queen Bella: the skinny throwup queen Holly:.
Bella: du u know how much fat is in one double cheesburg? Holly: let me get a pencil. Bella: 94 grams! U know how many fat cals in olive oil? Holly: thought it was good for cancer Bella: its all fat cals!!!!!!
Holly: wow. Bella: 3 pieces of bread soaked in olive oil is like eating 3 piecs of cheescake! Holly: theres a cheescake diet, u knowi read it in People Bella: and you know that Ital. Holly: so sorry, lets talk school Bella: too late, im eating licorice Holly: lucky u. Given Tonys odd hours and such, without a regular sit-down dinner, wed only talk through Post-it notes on the fridge!
Tony likes to grill on the weekends, so that keeps everyone around, too. Hes an excellent grillmaster. If someone were sick, would you send flowers or balloons? Many would, but my inclination would be to send over a pastina and ricotta. Its healing food. I thought it was a nice touch. She must have really enjoyed itshe came through so nicely. Spread the butter over the bottom and sides of a 9-inch pie pan or.
Add the crumbs, turning the pan to coat the bottom and sides. In a large bowl, stir together the sugar and cornstarch. Add the ricotta, eggs, cream, lemon zest, and vanilla and beat until smooth.
Pour the mixture into the prepared pan. Bake for 50 minutes, or until the pie is set around the edges but the center is still slightly soft.
Cool to room temperature on a wire rack. In a medium saucepan, stir together the sugar and cornstarch. Cook, stirring, until thickened, about 1 minute.
Add the pineapple. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly. Spread the pineapple mixture over the pie. Cover and chill for at least 1 hour before serving. Minestra Minest Escarole and Little Meatballs Soup Serves 6 1 head escarole about 1 pound 6 quarts chicken broth, preferably homemade 3 large carrots, chopped For the Meatballs 1 pound ground veal or beef.
Cut off the stem ends. Separate the leaves and wash well in cool water, especially the center of the leaves where soil collects. Stack the leaves and cut them crosswise into 1-inch strips. You should have about 4 cups. In a large pot, combine the escarole, broth, and carrots. Bring to a simmer and cook until the escarole is almost tender, about 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, mix together all of the meatball ingredients. Shape the mixture into tiny balls, less than 1 inch in diameter. When the escarole is cooked, stir in the pasta and return the soup to the simmer. Drop the meatballs into the soup. Cook over low heat, stirring gently, until the meatballs and pasta are cooked, about 20 minutes. Taste for seasoning. Serve hot with grated Parmesan.
Chop the meat fine. In a large pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the sausage and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until the sausage is lightly browned.
Add the wine and bring to a simmer. Cook until most of the wine evaporates. Stir in the tomatoes and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thickened, 1 hour and 15 to 30 minutes. Meanwhile, bring at least 4 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot over high heat. Add the. Cook, stirring occasionally until the rigatoni is al dente, tender yet still firm to the bite. In a large heated serving bowl, toss the rigatoni with the sauce.
Serve with the grated cheese. Shcarole with Garlic Sauted Escarole Serves 4 1 head escarole about 1 pound 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced Pinch of crushed red pepper optional 3 tablespoons olive oil Salt Trim the escarole and discard any bruised leaves.
Stack the leaves and cut them into bite-sized pieces. In a large pot, cook the garlic and red pepper, if using, in the olive oil over medium heat until the garlic is golden. Add the escarole and salt to taste. Stir well. Cover the pot and cook until the escarole is tender, about 15 minutes. Ziti al Forno Baked Ziti with Little Meatballs Serves 8 to 12 1 pound ziti Salt Sunday Gravy page 14 made with little meatballs 1 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano 1 cup ricotta 8 ounces mozzarella, cut into small dice Bring at least 4 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot.
Meanwhile, remove the meats, including the meatballs, from the gravy. Set the pork, veal, and sausage aside for the second course, or for another meal. Drain the ziti and put it in a large bowl.
Toss it with about 3 cups of the gravy and half the grated cheese. Stir in the meatballs. Spread the ricotta on top and sprinkle with the mozzarella and half of the remaining grated cheese. Pour on 1 cup of the sauce. Top with the remaining ziti and another cup of sauce. Sprinkle with the remaining grated cheese. Squeeze the juice from 1 lemon. Slice the other one.
Put the chicken and potatoes in a baking pan large enough to hold them in a single layer. Sprinkle with the lemon juice, oil, oregano, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste. Turn the pieces to coat evenly, then turn the chicken skin side up. Tuck the lemon slices and potatoes in between the chicken pieces. Bake the chicken for 45 minutes.
Baste with the pan juices. Continue to bake, basting occasionally, for 15 to 30 minutes longer, or until the chicken is browned and the potatoes are tender. Transfer the chicken, potatoes, and lemon slices to a serving platter.
Tip the pan and skim off the fat. Pour the juices over the chicken and serve. Add the pastina and salt to taste. Cook, stirring frequently, until the pastina is tender, about 5 minutes. Scoop out some of the cooking water. Drain the pastina and place it in a bowl with the ricotta and butter. Mix well, adding a little of the cooking water if the pasta seems dry.
Butter and flour a inch Bundt pan or tube pan. Drain the pears and reserve the liquid. In a medium bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, and salt. In the large bowl of an electric mixer, beat the butter and sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in the reserved pear liquid, the grappa, and vanilla. The batter will look curdled. Reduce the speed to low.
Add the flour mixture, scraping the sides of the bowl as necessary and beating just until blended, about 1 minute. With a rubber spatula, stir in the pears.
Scrape the batter into the prepared pan. Bake until the cake pulls away from the sides of the pan and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Invert the cake onto a rack and remove the pan. Let cool completely. Sprinkle with confectioners sugar before serving.
And now I have the honor and pleasure of serving up some of my own culinary creations. Cooking, needless to say, is my life, but it wasnt always that way. Having been raised in a family of restaurateurs, I rebelled in high school and couldnt stand the sight of spaghetti.
I committed myself to a strict diet of chili burgers and Slim Jims. My dream was to move to Los Angeles and play electric bass for the heavy metal band Judas Priest. I got as far as Pittsburgh and ran out of money. And I was hungry for some manicott. I bused tables and washed dishes at my parents place night and day to raise the cash to go to the prestigious Cooks Culinary Academy in London, England. I found out later that Paris was also a culinary center.
In six months, I learned everything I could about international cuisine, but to know Weiner schnitzel is not necessarily to love Weiner schnitzel.
I initially stuck with what got me theremy grandpas rice ballsbut I quickly learned that you could have your pasta and eat it too. People think I rode in on the Eighties Tuscan boomshrimp and cannellini, steak florentina, etc. I figured that you could stick with the old ways and still make them new with a deft and delicate touch of creativity. And thus was born my own style of traditional Italian cuisineneotraditional.
Its the same old food only different. I remember my very first cook-off at the academy. Boy, was I a jumble of nerves. My competitors were not just brilliant young chefs from Scotland and Sweden, but also two native Neapolitans who brought their own homemade olive oil!. What did I know? Still, my heart beat Neapolitan, or more precisely, Avellinese, and somewhere I knew I could come up with something out of my gastronomic imagination to outItalian the Italians.
Artie on Olive Oil Olive oils are a bit like winethey vary according to region, variety, and age. Southern Italian olive oils are very aromatic and good for blending. The best olive oils are extra virginthey come from the first squeezing of the olives, are pressed without heat or chemicals, and have low acidic content. The better the oil, the lower the acidity level.
There is also light olive oil, but it doesn t mean lower in calories. It means lighter in flavor. And that dish, made in a moment of youthful desperation, is still served nightly at Nuovo VesuvioQuail Sinatra-Style. My secret ingredientsun-dried tomatoes. Sure, they originally came from the Boot, but no one there much cared about them and I had read a great magazine article about the new California cuisine on the plane ride over.
So a culinary tidbit that went from Sicily to Naples to California to Newark to London got me a third prize in my very first competition.
First prize went to a Scottish concoction called Haddock Mousse. How did Quail Sinatra-Style gets its name? Frank was singing Luck Be a Lady on the 8track when it came to me. I was way past Judas Priest by then.
By far my proudest moment was the first meal I served my parents after returning from London. I wanted to make a statement about my emerging neotraditional style, so I fixed a simple but daring dish that had never crossed their lipspasta alla vodka. My mother hated itit wasnt our food, plus she had no love for the Russians. My father, on the other hand, gorged himself and immediately added the dish to the dinner menu, causing quite a stir among the regular clientele.
It wasnt until he saw the college crowd gushing over it that he realized an important lesson of modern Italian cuisineinnovate or die. I could tell you a hundred more stories about my life in food, but time is short and food is always better than talk.
So, as Grandma used to inveigh, Mangia, mangia! Eat and enjoy. Artie on Wine Tips Having attended a few for professionals only Wine Lovers Weekends in Atlantic City with, the world-famous sommelier Charles Scicolone, I feel qualified to pass on my own preferences. Southern Italy is the new frontier of Italian wines, especially the region of Campania, i.
For a great red wine from the area, look for a nice Taurasi or the red version of Lacrima Christi. Of course, if it is your wont, you can go with California wines, or those from Northern Italy, or France! But if you want to feel like youre sitting in a corner caffe in Napoli chowing down on a little steak pizzaiol, try one of the above.
Add the broccoli and asparagus and cook for 1 minute. With a small sieve, scoop out the vegetables and drain them well. Leave the water boiling in the pot. In a skillet large enough to hold the cooked fettuccine, melt the butter over medium heat.
Add the onion and carrots and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes, or until softened. Add the broccoli and asparagus to the skillet, along with the peas and cream. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in the basil and turn off the heat.
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