I'd take a slice any day. Ping G Titleist ProV1x. One can concentrate so much on hitting up that one leaves their weight back. Weight back often equals left and left for righties of course. The other thing I find that causes snappers is trying to hit the driver too easy.
I don't shift my weight and or turn my hips enough and my arms outrace the lower body - left and left. I left the club face open due to a cocked lead wrist.
I corrected this but now snap hook it more often than not. I've read that this is caused by the club getting caught behind me. I make a point to rotate fully through the swing, but still cannot get rid of it. I'm a mess I know. I used to be a slicer with the driver as well I have cured the slice and the snap hook comes out once in awhile I would take that slice over the hook any day of the week.
Man I had a fit where I couldn't hit anything longer than a 5 iron without it making a hard turn for the left trees. Had to give up playing until I could figure it out on the range. At least with a slice I could get the ball in the air and off the tee somewhat effectively. However, the result of either depends on what kind of shot that you were aiming for at the time it happens is the key thing.
I can survive a slice if I aim for a fade unless it's a big block slice. When you get the horrible double cross is when things turn disastrous generally. As someone that has, at various points, struggled with both push fades and snap hooks, I'll take the former. The snaphook would be my choice of the 2 on a hole where the left and right miss is equal. The slice usually goes up in the air and travels a long way, while the snapper will dive down and get on the ground faster.
Your fix might be exacerbating your problem. You need to feel closed for longer to create space for the arms. When they're in the slot you can then rotate hard without a hook. I changed my swing to get rid of hooks. I still draw fairway woods on occasion and I can live with that but in general, I don't like seeing the ball go right to left. Damn, how does that freaking swing work? Ah, 'shallowing' Let's push the enveloppe a bit Most important thing with hitting up on the ball is getting to your left side period.
I have always said that the worst shots happen when the lower body isn't active enough on the downswing. Opposite of fade is draw. Opposite of slice is hook. That ground hook seems to run forever,,,,,,,,,,,,,. For your information, the posted distances are not my average distance. I have no idea what I average on the course as I don't have a personal statistician marking off every shot I take. I do know however that the driving range I go to has a flag 80 yards, , and I always start with my LW hitting it to the 80 yard marker without going after it agressively some shots come up short, some go over, like I said I have only been playing for under a year.
I then pull out the PW and fire away at the yard marker and so on. In no way am I stating I hit the ball those distances every shot every time out. Those are the distances and clubs I pull out of the bag when faced with those distances.
If I hit it like I do 7 out of 10 times the distances are accurate even though they might not hit my target , with the other 3 shots usually coming up short or shanked. I tend to play the same 4 courses in my city and the distances rarely change and on a yd par 3 I am hitting PW unless conditions like wind come into play. The reason I am asking for advice is when I first started playing, I used to try to kill the ball with every swing I took, it didn't matter which club. Like I stated previously, I can hit it yards swinging very easy but now that my wedge game is coming together I would like to start hittin wedges into the greens as opposed to mid or long irons.
I don't see why these distances seem so far fetched? One of my friends hits his PW yds. I figuredgiven you are generating that kind of clubhead speed after that short a time in the gameyou were a pretty good athlete.
My background is football and baseball. Football to high school level. Baseball to the college level. Best advice I can give you is that you need to IGNORE the "off-the-rack" equipment advice that gets handed out to high-handicap players.
Because the typical person handing it out, never had someone like you or me when I first took up the game in mind.
As you get better especially if you are taking lessons you will probably find yourself generating professional-level clubhead speeds Probably after hitting it to parts of the course that the architect never imagined a player would find with their golf ball Do yourself a favor and find yourself a good, open-minded clubfitter.
Don't waste years of frustration trying to play "regular" and "stiff" shafted clubs, just because that is what the "conventional wisdom" says you should be playing. I eventually found a clubfitter who right away put me in x-flex shafts in my irons The news is not good, on an off day I still do that after playing 30 years to as low as a 5 handicap and I still have no idea why.
I am a 9 handicap and have been battling the same issue for a little under a year now. There are a couple things that I have been able to ascertain from a little camera and foresight work. I have been working on holding off to the point where I am hitting slight push's, then slowly bringing in a more fluid release to bring the ball back on aim line.
I have been working on b eeing extra aggressive with release along with focusing on getting the driver to release to the inside of my target line. Once I started to pull hook the driver, I start to slowly back off on the release a bit at a time until I have reach the desired ball flight. Hope this helps! Edited to add I also have a mph swing speed with the driver. My yardages are bang on with yours After straightening out my ball flight I have no problems carrying yds and can usually hit to just under sometimes over the yds mark.
My longest drives come from the easiest most fluid swings. Don't back off too much but swing with as much authority while still maintaining balance and tempo, tempo, tempo You can post now and register later.
If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead. Clear editor. Upload or insert images from URL. By StrongTR Started 55 minutes ago. By jomatty Started 2 hours ago. For many of you this will be ground-breaking information. However, if you have been around the golfing block, this is stuff that you have heard before. So, make sure that any change you make relates to one or all of the above. Once, again, these options are;.
In The Accuracy Plan, I show you how to do all of the above. We look at. If you want to learn more about The Accuracy Plan, check it out by clicking the image below. Because I want to make you a raving fan of mine, and I know I can help you do that. In order to get this course, simply click the image below for more details. A slice is never controlled and never intentional. It takes you off course and adds strokes to your game. Well, if you want to do a deep dive on this topic, you can check out our free ebook, Science of the Slice.
The swing path describes the path of your club head as you swing through. Your swing path will always be oriented in one of three directions. The combination of these two factors can really make or break your shots. There are a few factors that come into play. For one thing, your driver is your longest club and is designed to generate more speed. As you know, you always want to hit up on your driver.
But hitting up on the ball changes the direction of your swing path. I like to explain this using the visual of a hula hoop. Your golf swing travels in a circle shape. Because of this lean, the direction of your swing path changes after you hit the low point. Now, you hit down on your iron shots, which means you make contact before the low point.
When you hit the ball, the swing path is working to the right. Is it a slice or a shank? A fade or a slice? Both a slice and a fade curve to the right. For one thing, a fade is controlled. Another way to diagnose it is to consider how much you have to adjust your aim to keep the ball on the fairway.
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